Category Archives: Asia

Glutton-related matters: Squat Toilets

Maybe you think this is self-explanatory, but some people truly don’t know how to do this. Or some have tried, and failed miserably (and this is one endeavor where you don’t want to fail miserably, believe you me). Some people take one look and decide, I’ll just try to hold it in for as long as possible. Or they say, I’ll try to avoid that situation as much as possible and eat every night at Bacco, where they have magazine holders built into their toilets.

But sometimes, you just can’t do that (the bolognese at Bacco is no longer that good, for one thing). All Gluttons know a thorough foray into the world of street food will eventually pit you against one of these things, sooner or later. This guide is for those troubled times.

So, following, some tips from the region’s best experts in, er, Emergency Situations in Rustic Settings. Read, learn. Then wisely and well will you pee, my padwan (did you not get that “Star Wars” reference? I am a nerd).

– BUY YOUR OWN TISSUES. Ever wonder why every Thai woman a.) wears a shower cap while bathing and b.) carries a mini-pack of tissues in her purse? Well, I can’t answer the first one, because I am basically an American and we just don’t do that sort of thing. But the mini-pack of tissues is an urban necessity for EVERYONE with a urethra and/or bowels. Because you just don’t want to be caught without a pack in an emergency situation and have to resort to using the old receipts lurking at the bottom of your handbag. Not that I would know about any of that.

– ROLL UP YOUR PANTS. To above the knee. Yes, this is important. How important? Well, how much do you prize your pants? Do you want a new pair and need a reason? Are pants not a big deal for you to replace? That’s how important it is. If you are unlucky enough to be wearing a long skirt, knot it up and throw the extra fabric over your shoulder.

– FACE BACKWARDS. This one isn’t absolutely essential to your well-being, but it might prove useful. Let’s just say that, uh, gravity isn’t the only force at work when nature calls. It’s not always a straight drop down, so to speak. Facing backwards, where there’s plenty of allowance for when you are in a really, really dire situation, could save you from ruining the next person’s bathroom experience.

– STEP OUTSIDE OF THE LINES. Thai people are tiny. As a result, sometimes their toilets are tiny too. So sometimes you need to allow yourself a little more elbow room, if you know what I mean (wink wink, nudge nudge. How many more of these tiresome phrases can I add to this post? Let’s see). Of course, this only works for those step-up ones, not the ones that pop-up out of the ground.

– HOLD YOUR BREATH. This might be the most important one. @SpecialKRB recommends burrowing your nose into the neckline of your T-shirt, “like a bathroom bandit”. These places aren’t known for being where the Gods of Hygiene reside. In fact, one guy friend of mine once told me about a gas station bathroom where someone managed to take a dump in one of the urinals. That was a person who really was in some sort of emergency, I imagine. We have all been there. Sort of (I’ve never taken a dump in a urinal. I’m not lying, for once).

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Filed under Asia, Bangkok, food, food stalls, restaurant, Thailand

Stuff face with sweets, feel like a good person

Something sweet and Thai

I used to not be a “desserts” type of person. My favorite part of the meal used to be the salad. Now that I am the ripe old age of 65, my body chemistry has changed, and sweets have become an integral part of my diet. Cupcakes, pie, cake, Thai sugary egg drops, coconut custard, even those creepy little marzipan fake fruits — all are ready fodder for my gaping face.

Luckily, some people are organizing a get-together after my own shriveled, blackened old heart. Calling it a “sweetup”, the bkkfatty crowd are meeting up (get it? Meetup? Oh, never mind) at Tenface Bangkok’s Sita bar (check this out at www.tenfacebangkok.com) on Friday, September 10. A 300 baht entry fee will get you a “dessert bar” stuffed with sweets from both sides of the East-West divide and an insane buy 1, get 1 drinks deal ALL NIGHT (I foresee many “I wish the earth would swallow me up right now” moments). Even better, all proceeds go to charity, so you can eat like a pig and feel like a saint (check out www.insearchofsanuk.com) for more details.

Also, a little birdy (called “Twitter”) says Movenpick is sponsoring the event. Score! Maple-walnut ice cream, anyone?

For upcoming details, go to www.dwightmturner.com

And now, a parting picture of gratawn loy gaew to get you in the mood.

All about the food porn

(Photos by @SpecialKRB)

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Filed under Asia, Bangkok, dessert, food, restaurant, Thailand

Markets: the Original

Where I grew up, there where a place where the cool kids used to hang out called “the O”. It stood for “the Original”, although to be frank I have no idea how many versions of this Pittsburgh hot dog shop had to exist in order to necessitate singling yourself out as the “original” one. It’s not like Pittsburgh is awash in hot dogs — although I do remember fondly the O’s “disco fries” (our version of the Canadian “poutine”, which does not seem like a very evocative name for these cheese-slathered, bacon-topped deep-fried potato slivers. Heaven on a plate!)

What’s that? I’m supposed to be talking about something you might be interested in? Oh yes, that’s right. This:

Thai "pla tu" on sale at Nang Lerng market

It’s Nang Lerng market, located in the Banglamphu area on Nakhon Sawan road. This is supposed to be the very first wet market to ever sprout up in central Bangkok. What I do know for sure is that, like all of Thailand’s wet markets, it’ a load of fun to visit and the go-to place for some pretty hard-to-find old-style delicacies, such as the glutinous pork-filled rice balls, eaten with lettuce leaves, fresh coriander and chilies — a sweetly piquant mass of satisfying goo in the mouth.

Or old-style haw mok (steamed seafood mousse in banana cups), a Portuguese-influenced concoction combining local ingredients with European technique:

Steamed seafood mousse topped with coconut cream and shredded kaffir lime leaves

Then there are the delicacies that you actually do want to eat, like coconut ice cream trad-style, in a little plastic cup and festooned with roasted peanuts.

Fresh coconut ice cream

But if you do make it over there, do not miss Roongroj, the duck noodle shop at 141,143 Nang Lerng market. A popular with politicians who send their drivers over at noon for some lunchtime takeaway, Roongroj deserves its reputation as a shop with an extensive menu, efficient service and generous portions of sweet, toothsome duck.

Egg noodles with duck

The choice is extensive: stewed duck, braised duck, duck in pullo (Chinese five-spice and cinnamon broth) are all there, plus stewed chicken, barbecued pork and some very  nice giew (Chinese dumplings). Yes, if the duck or noodles haven’t tipped you off already — this food is Chinese. But then again, what noodle stand in Thailand ultimately isn’t?

Three different orders at Roongroj duck noodles

It’s open every day, and from late morning to well into the evening, so it’s hard to miss out on getting yourself a bowl. Do yourself a favor and trek over into the old part of town; basking in the atmosphere of the “original” wet market is worth it.

(Photos by @SpecialKRB)

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Filed under Asia, bamee, Bangkok, Chinese, duck, food, food stalls, markets, noodles, Thai-Chinese, Thailand