Category Archives: food stalls

Glutton-related matters: Squat Toilets

Maybe you think this is self-explanatory, but some people truly don’t know how to do this. Or some have tried, and failed miserably (and this is one endeavor where you don’t want to fail miserably, believe you me). Some people take one look and decide, I’ll just try to hold it in for as long as possible. Or they say, I’ll try to avoid that situation as much as possible and eat every night at Bacco, where they have magazine holders built into their toilets.

But sometimes, you just can’t do that (the bolognese at Bacco is no longer that good, for one thing). All Gluttons know a thorough foray into the world of street food will eventually pit you against one of these things, sooner or later. This guide is for those troubled times.

So, following, some tips from the region’s best experts in, er, Emergency Situations in Rustic Settings. Read, learn. Then wisely and well will you pee, my padwan (did you not get that “Star Wars” reference? I am a nerd).

– BUY YOUR OWN TISSUES. Ever wonder why every Thai woman a.) wears a shower cap while bathing and b.) carries a mini-pack of tissues in her purse? Well, I can’t answer the first one, because I am basically an American and we just don’t do that sort of thing. But the mini-pack of tissues is an urban necessity for EVERYONE with a urethra and/or bowels. Because you just don’t want to be caught without a pack in an emergency situation and have to resort to using the old receipts lurking at the bottom of your handbag. Not that I would know about any of that.

– ROLL UP YOUR PANTS. To above the knee. Yes, this is important. How important? Well, how much do you prize your pants? Do you want a new pair and need a reason? Are pants not a big deal for you to replace? That’s how important it is. If you are unlucky enough to be wearing a long skirt, knot it up and throw the extra fabric over your shoulder.

– FACE BACKWARDS. This one isn’t absolutely essential to your well-being, but it might prove useful. Let’s just say that, uh, gravity isn’t the only force at work when nature calls. It’s not always a straight drop down, so to speak. Facing backwards, where there’s plenty of allowance for when you are in a really, really dire situation, could save you from ruining the next person’s bathroom experience.

– STEP OUTSIDE OF THE LINES. Thai people are tiny. As a result, sometimes their toilets are tiny too. So sometimes you need to allow yourself a little more elbow room, if you know what I mean (wink wink, nudge nudge. How many more of these tiresome phrases can I add to this post? Let’s see). Of course, this only works for those step-up ones, not the ones that pop-up out of the ground.

– HOLD YOUR BREATH. This might be the most important one. @SpecialKRB recommends burrowing your nose into the neckline of your T-shirt, “like a bathroom bandit”. These places aren’t known for being where the Gods of Hygiene reside. In fact, one guy friend of mine once told me about a gas station bathroom where someone managed to take a dump in one of the urinals. That was a person who really was in some sort of emergency, I imagine. We have all been there. Sort of (I’ve never taken a dump in a urinal. I’m not lying, for once).

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Filed under Asia, Bangkok, food, food stalls, restaurant, Thailand

Markets: the Original

Where I grew up, there where a place where the cool kids used to hang out called “the O”. It stood for “the Original”, although to be frank I have no idea how many versions of this Pittsburgh hot dog shop had to exist in order to necessitate singling yourself out as the “original” one. It’s not like Pittsburgh is awash in hot dogs — although I do remember fondly the O’s “disco fries” (our version of the Canadian “poutine”, which does not seem like a very evocative name for these cheese-slathered, bacon-topped deep-fried potato slivers. Heaven on a plate!)

What’s that? I’m supposed to be talking about something you might be interested in? Oh yes, that’s right. This:

Thai "pla tu" on sale at Nang Lerng market

It’s Nang Lerng market, located in the Banglamphu area on Nakhon Sawan road. This is supposed to be the very first wet market to ever sprout up in central Bangkok. What I do know for sure is that, like all of Thailand’s wet markets, it’ a load of fun to visit and the go-to place for some pretty hard-to-find old-style delicacies, such as the glutinous pork-filled rice balls, eaten with lettuce leaves, fresh coriander and chilies — a sweetly piquant mass of satisfying goo in the mouth.

Or old-style haw mok (steamed seafood mousse in banana cups), a Portuguese-influenced concoction combining local ingredients with European technique:

Steamed seafood mousse topped with coconut cream and shredded kaffir lime leaves

Then there are the delicacies that you actually do want to eat, like coconut ice cream trad-style, in a little plastic cup and festooned with roasted peanuts.

Fresh coconut ice cream

But if you do make it over there, do not miss Roongroj, the duck noodle shop at 141,143 Nang Lerng market. A popular with politicians who send their drivers over at noon for some lunchtime takeaway, Roongroj deserves its reputation as a shop with an extensive menu, efficient service and generous portions of sweet, toothsome duck.

Egg noodles with duck

The choice is extensive: stewed duck, braised duck, duck in pullo (Chinese five-spice and cinnamon broth) are all there, plus stewed chicken, barbecued pork and some very  nice giew (Chinese dumplings). Yes, if the duck or noodles haven’t tipped you off already — this food is Chinese. But then again, what noodle stand in Thailand ultimately isn’t?

Three different orders at Roongroj duck noodles

It’s open every day, and from late morning to well into the evening, so it’s hard to miss out on getting yourself a bowl. Do yourself a favor and trek over into the old part of town; basking in the atmosphere of the “original” wet market is worth it.

(Photos by @SpecialKRB)

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Filed under Asia, bamee, Bangkok, Chinese, duck, food, food stalls, markets, noodles, Thai-Chinese, Thailand

Two great food stalls

Beef noodles 'nam thok'-style at Nai Soi

There comes a time … when I actually have to talk about street food. Yes, I know. I know you actually want to hear about my day, and how my minders are making me eat cardboard for lunch, and how my life is a Jennifer Aniston movie if Jen put boot polish on her hair and gained 30 lbs. But I’m going to save all that good stuff for my widely anticipated TV movie screenplay for the Hallmark channel. All you get to read about are these two relatively undiscovered gems.

Emphasis on “relatively”. Because Nai Soi (100/2-3 T. Phra Arthit, 081-487-9359 or 086-982-9042) is well-known to any journalist who works for the Manager group or general traveler-in-the-know who makes Phra Arthit Road his or her base of operations. This Banglamphu standby is popular for its gorgeously amber-colored beef noodles — slightly chewy rice noodles bathed in a garnet-colored broth and tender, flimsy slices of freshly blanched beef. Unlike my other beef noodle favorite, Raan Anamai, the broth here is thickened with blood (known as nam thok, or “water falling”) and not crystal-clear; nonetheless, it doesn’t make it any less yummy.  OM NOM NOM NOM.

Making our beef noodles

Too bad I can’t eat there right now. Another place where I can’t eat is the incomparable Aisa Rot Dee (the beginning of Thanee Rd., 02-282-6378, 081-401-1326), purveyor of most things delicious and Thai-Muslim. Mounds of soft and fragrant yellow rice, perfumed with cumin, atop hunks of slightly charred barbecued chicken; bowls of aromatic beef noodles smelling slightly of star anise; comfortingly substantial oxtail chunks in a fiery broth; sweet-salty beef satay coated in coconut milk — the offerings here turn other Thai-Muslim eateries like the nearby Roti-Mataba into mere whispers of an afterthought. There is no way you would be able to leave this hole in the wall hungry.

Thai-Muslim yellow chicken

And I mean “hole in the wall”. The only suggestion that there is a bustling “restaurant” somewhere behind all the touristy knick-knack shops hawking fishermen’s pants and flip-flops is a sign on the sidewalk — in Thai — reading “Aisa rot dee” (Aisa good taste). In the narrow alleyway behind the sign, two forbidding faces manning a beef noodle stand, and as you approach the darkness, the hint of more. After passing the khao mok gai and tripping over two or three people on the way, the darkness becomes the light, and the alleyway opens into a substantial open-air courtyard, tables, chairs — even waiters.

Aisa is a leap of faith for a hungry Indiana Jones-type searching out answers in a culinary maze. Don’t let the darkness fool you.

(Photos by @SpecialKRB)

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Filed under Asia, Bangkok, beef, chicken, food, food stalls, noodles, restaurant, rice, Thai-Muslim, Thailand