Category Archives: Thailand

It’s not you, it’s me

Thai catfish with green mango salad at Chote Chitr

My husband bought me a painting for my birthday. On some days, it looks to me like the tumultuous juncture where the four elements meet, clash and learn to coexist (earth, fire, water, air). On other days, it looks like a chicken on fire. What I see varies from day to day, depending on what mood I’m in.

Similarly, there are some Thai restaurants that I simply do not “get”. Foodie darlings that get a pass for whatever they serve, thanks to the strength of a couple of specials, or the exclusivity of the surroundings, or the remarkable history. But the onus of “getting” them lies on me, rather than the other way around: I am feeling ill that day, or am in a bad mood, or whatever.

So it is with trepidation that I admit, I have never been able to bring myself to enjoy a meal at Thai institution Chote Chitr, which is nearly a century old. It’s not for lack of trying, on either my part or theirs. Unlike some other places that seem to coast on their reputations, Chote Chitr is sincere in its intentions (sincerity is a big thing for me): the food is made with care, the service is prompt and welcoming, there are no shortcuts. It is genuine home cooking. And it always shows, like in its well-crafted nam prik platu (shrimp paste chili dip with fried Thai mackerel and all the fixings) or well-thought-out specials (on our recent visit, a smashingly good tamarind-laced sour gaeng with mushrooms and deep-fried salted smelts).

Thom kong pla salid

But sometimes, and no offense to the lovely, lovely Tim Krachochouli and formidable Lucky and Nam Waan (her two dogs) — the food is too sweet. Even the nam prik, which I enjoyed, is too sweet. I know they don’t resort to using granulated sugar (the horror). I know everything is made from scratch. And I have as much respect for R.W. Apple as anyone. But it’s just too damn sweet. I can’t go to town on the food, because I know I’ll feel nauseated halfway through. That’s just the way it is. It’s my problem.

And yes, I know extreme sweetness is a necessary feature of the somehow-this-became-what-they-are-known-for mee krob (yeah yeah, flavored with a rare citrus fruit blah blah blah, I have tons of respect for Bob too). It’s my belief mee krob should be balanced by a spicy curry because each cancels the other out — it doesn’t work any other way. To eat it without thinking about this is sort of an example of what I mean when I say Thai food — as a whole — is getting too sweet in this city. It’s becoming an (admittedly superior) version of the sweetened Thai you find abroad. I blame the gradually Westernized palate in Bangkok (although mine is as Westernized as they come and … oh, never mind. Meatloaf, anyone?)

Chote Chitr's famous mee krob

I want to point out that it’s not that I don’t like Chote Chitr, because I do. It’s just that I like some other Thai restaurants better, and I don’t think they get as much attention. My favorites: lunchtime-only old-school joint Sanguansri (59/1 Wireless Rd., 02-252-7637), especially their kanom jeen (fermented rice noodle) dishes, or Sukhumvit standby Ruea Thong (351/2 Thonglor 17, 02-185-2610), which serves an awesome gaeng kua with marble-sized “exploding” mushrooms and a great nam prik made of ground peppercorns — a reminder of the pre-chili days before the Portuguese when the main spice in Thailand was pepper, or prik Thai. Also promising: the only week-old Soul Food Mahanakorn (56/10 Thonglor, 085-904-2691), which is built on a great idea (street food with air-conditioning and superb cocktails) but more on that some other time. I am zonked out on Dayquil (obviously) and can only ramble incoherently for so long.

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Filed under Asia, Bangkok, curries, fish, food, noodles, restaurant, seafood, Thailand

Glutton-related matters: Fat

Scones: a dietary no-no

In the United States, over one-third of Americans fall into the “obese” category, according to U.S.-based nonprofit the Obesity Society. That’s news that is guaranteed to surprise no one.

So it shouldn’t be much of a shock that Thailand is going the way of its American ally — a 2009 government study showed the average size of the Thai man had grown 7 cm in height and 12 kg in weight over the past 25 years, while the height of women has increased 5 cm and weight by 5.5 kg. Women’s waistlines have grown 3.7 cm, resulting in a more “tubular” shape, noted study researchers. No correspondingly insulting adjective for the shape of men, alas.

No reason was really given for this jump in size, but we can probably guess the culprit: loud-mouthed political blowhards trying to drown out all voices of dissent … Oh wait, that’s not it! Excuse me ::shuffles notes::

Ahem. I mean our daily diets, of course! And when you eat like I eat — like a shark that is on its 15-minute coffee break after a two-week-long fast — it’s a good idea to take a step back and, uh, weigh the wisdom of our daily food choices. And when I say “our”, I mean “my”. I am tired of people getting up for me on the Skytrain (I am not pregnant, people) and sick of wearing my maternity clothes. I enlist the help of my long-suffering trainer, Champ.

Ever read those “food journals” in women’s magazines and get bored/annoyed/alarmed at the ridiculously small amounts these fashion stylists/PR women/models eat? (“Saturday: 2 pieces of sushi. Cup of green tea. Teaspoon of tiramisu.”) Here’s a food journal that will make you feel much better about yourself. Even better, it’s for real!

Friday:

9:00 — Slice of toast with cheese

12:30 — at Xuan Mai: 1/2 portion beef pho, avocado and mango salad, many pieces of deep-fried spring roll, 2 pieces of fresh spring roll

8:00 — after getting freaked out by “Food Inc.”: grass-fed beef tenderloin, green bean salad with cherry tomatoes, stir-fried bok choy in oyster sauce, stir-fried kale in Maggi, glass of red wine (or three)

(Champ, my trainer, already looks alarmed: “Can’t you eat earlier?” he says. “What about my friends?” I say. “Do you want to lose weight or have friends?” he asks.)

Saturday:

9:00 — 1.5 slices of cold grass-fed beef, 2 Tbs green bean salad

12:30 — at Khun Churn: vegetarian khao soy, 1/2 serving of brown rice, sweet tofu-potato curry, mushroom “nam thok”, 1/2 plate fried green beans

7:00 — at Xinn Tien Di: Peking duck, suckling pig, morning glory with shrimp paste, barbecued pork ribs, 2 Tbs jellyfish, fried fish, 2 pieces fried pork, 2 pieces fried soft-shell crab, 1 piece date-stuffed pancake, minced duck with lettuce

(“Oh my God,” says Champ. “Was that all for one person?” “It’s a Chinese meal, they have courses,” I explain. “Your dinner is more food than I see in a day,” he says. “I eat two hard-boiled eggs and a glass of milk at night. That’s all.”)

Sunday:

9:00 — 1 Quaker oats 100-calorie bar

11:30 — Romaine lettuce with salami, ham, cheese, anchovies, oil and vinegar dressing

3:00 — Tom yum mushroom

7:30 — at Maduzi hotel: Organic herb salad, lamb, steak

(“That’s a lot of food,” says Champ. “Could you try to limit yourself to one main course?” “I was hungry,” I say. “Just go straight to sleep,” he says. Uh, thanks, mister magician of the obvious!)

Final verdict: I’m not eating enough for breakfast. I need more protein and carbs first thing so I don’t freak out when I see real food at lunchtime and stuff my face, Champ says. Bacon and hard-boiled eggs are a good idea (Champ is big on hard-boiled eggs).

Limiting myself to one or two dishes out is also a good idea, since the portion sizes of the 4-5 dishes I usually order at one sitting total up to half a day’s worth of food. I could maybe manage to restrain myself if I add two mini-meals a day, one in the mid-morning and one mid-afternoon, he says. At dinnertime (no later than 7:30pm), one dish is enough, without any carbs. And lay off the fried foods!

Alcohol is a bad idea. If I must have a glass of wine or two, or three, then I must be prepared to make some sort of sacrifice elsewhere (food-wise). Or I could spend a few more minutes on the treadmill or elliptical trainer (no way in hell). There must be some sort of trade-off (I’ll have to cut off an arm).

I complain all the time about how I have no friends, but now is the time to actually not have any friends, apparently. A social life is a hindrance to sticking to my diet. Or, as Champ says, “Tell your friends you’ll see them in three months.” Is this for real? Will they even recognize me? How seriously should I be taking this diet?

Then again, the maternity wear in Thailand is getting pretty cute. Maybe I could hold on for a few more months.

(Photos by @SpecialKRB)

Trainer-approved grub: Anothai's green papaya salad

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Filed under Asia, Bangkok, food, restaurant, Thailand, weight loss

A quick word on satay

Yummy grilled pork on skewers with cucumber relish and peanut sauce

Satay is an iconic dish in Thailand, but may have gotten its start in Indonesia following an influx of Arab traders there, according to food researchers. Whatever its origins may be, this dish has fully incorporated itself into the culinary fabric of Southeast Asia, burrowing into the food cultures of Malaysia and of course, Thailand (what else is in Southeast Asia? Ha ha. Just kidding. Sort of.)

There are tons of great satay places out there, but I think any satay-lover worth his or her stick would naturally gravitate toward the great vendors of Chinatown, where cooks manage that delicate balancing act between art and commerce, churning out thousands of bamboo skewers of grilled pork (it’s almost always pork, although apparently the skewer started out as a vehicle for beef or mutton) a night.

Jay Eng, on the corner of Plang Nam next to the Canton Shrine, is a favorite of my parents’ and I understand why — it’s grilled porky perfection with a spicier version of the peanut dipping sauce and quick, efficient service. But such dinky little pieces of pork! You know that’s not enough for Glutton queens like moi.

Which is why I prefer Chongki (84-88 Soi Suthorn, 081-615-8733), on the border between Chinatown and Hua Lumphong, and purveyor of the meatiest pork skewers around. Each order comes with a plate of peanut sauce and a bowl of ajad (cucumber-shallot relish with peppers), and slices of freshly grilled bread for just a little extra.

Even better, diners can order from the khao moo daeng (barbecued pork rice) vendor next door for a full-sized meal (but not the chicken rice vendor down the road; apparently the servers won’t walk that far…)

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Filed under Asia, Bangkok, Chinatown, food, food stalls, pork, Thailand