Tag Archives: fish

What’s Cooking: Pla rah sub

Towards the end of the process

Lauren and I are working on our next cookbook, and just started testing recipes again — me doing the easy ones, Lauren stuck with the hard ones. One of the very easy ones I’ve tested is this pla rah sub (minced fermented Thai anchovy), which is also known among Isan-ers as jaew bong, and even larb pla rah. The only thing you have to do is put your back into it, literally, while you are chopping up this mince into beyond-tartare near-infinitesimal pieces. You want to think of yourself as a super-ninja dealing with their vanquished foe, but maybe that imagery isn’t very appetizing; think more super-ninja preparing a well-earned breakfast.

If you don’t like to make this yourself and live in Thailand (and why would you prepare this yourself, if you live in Bangkok or Isan), then get yourself to your local market or Bangkok’s Aor Tor Kor, where my mother’s favorite vendor sells a great version of this dish. No real need to turn your biceps into jelly unless you really, really need to!

Pla Rah Sub aka Jaew Bong aka Larb Pla Rah

Makes 4. You can eat this with sticky or regular rice, steamed and/or boiled veggies, any kind of fresh leaf like pennywort, mango leaves or even plain lettuce.

Ingredients:

1.75 ounces (50g) pla rah marinated for at least 6 months in salt (or anchovies)

2 tablespoons tamarind juice or crushed tamarind pods

2 tablespoons kaffir lime leaves, chiffonaded

2 tablespoons lemongrass, sliced

2 tablespoons galangal, sliced

2 tablespoons dried red chilies, sliced

1 tablespoons red shallots, sliced

1 tablespoons garlic, crushed

You can sear the pla rah lightly in a pan or use as is. Start by mincing finely with chilies, then add sliced galangal and mince further. The point is to mince it as finely as you can until everything is well incorporated and resembles baby food or a very fine tartare. You will notice that by now a nice, fragrant aroma is emerging from your mush. Add kaffir lime leaves and repeat the process. Then tamarind, then shallots. You are like Sisyphus, but with a cleaver instead of a boulder, and with the reward of a delicious dip at the end. Continue until everything is incorporated.

Scrape into a bowl and serve as part of an Isan meal of grilled meat, soup and sticky rice, or with fresh or boiled vegetables and eggs.

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Living to Eat

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The mieng pla at RBSC

It should come as a surprise to absolutely no one that I love food, or that I am drawn to other people who love food. My friend Gwen is one such person. A constant whirlwind of activity, she touches place here or there long enough to, inevitably, pick up a friend or two and eat at this or that fabulous place. She is also invariably kind, which is probably why the most damning thing she can say about someone is that he or she “eats to live”. 

Look, everybody has to eat to live. But it’s a very particular type of person who lives to eat. This is the person who plans his or her travel itinerary around restaurants; who would rather go hungry than eat something that tastes bad; who considers life a series of meals, and every sub-par meal a missed opportunity. I am this type of person, which explains why I have no friends and no one will travel with me. I have also met other people like this, and it’s like meeting other people with strange obsessions or second lives — the guy who dresses up like Boba Fett at the occasional Star Wars-themed convention, or Bruce Wayne in his off-time. 

A person who eats to live might not find much to trumpet about when it comes to the Isaan dish mieng pla: there’s fish, and vegetables, sometimes noodles, and a dipping sauce. There is no interesting technique, no volcanically hot wok, no smoke, no fire to speak of. No welcoming waft of steam when you lift the lid off the bamboo steamer, no doughy dabs wrapped like tiny birthday presents, no glistening jewel-toned slabs of flesh arranged artfully on a platter like pieces of jewelry. This is all DIY work — it’s all up to you. All you need are the fish and the seasonings. Anybody can do it.

Except that not all mieng pla is made the same. It’s hard to screw up, that is true, but it’s also hard to make great. And that’s what Khun Sakol Boon-ek, the proprietor at the mieng pla tu stand at the Prajane Lumpini market, is able to do. Plump, fat (and deboned!) pieces of Thai mackerel; fat, juicy greens, and fresh, unblemished condiments (lime, shallot, peanuts, ginger, green mango, chilies, and, in her case, blanched thin rice vermicelli, or sen mee), this is everything you need for an afternoon snack, a light lunch, or, if you are a Hobbit like me, elevenses.

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K. Sakol’s mieng pla

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K. Sakol’s accompanying greens

Khun Sakol’s secret is ultimately her dipping sauce: a mixture of lime juice, fish sauce, garlic, sugar and a bountiful harvest of chilies, yes, but somehow the sum is greater than the parts. Obviously she won’t tell me her secret.

To contact her (they deliver!) call 084-944-6732. Or, if you are very lucky, she might be at the Prajane Lumpini market situated along the right-hand side of Polo Road (Soi Sanam Klee) if you are coming from Wireless, but I’m not sure how much longer she’ll be there. Sadly, some big changes appear to be planned for that road: Khao Thom Polo (they of the fire-and-brimstone jungle curry) are being asked to move, and even the mighty Polo Fried Chicken might have to follow suit. 

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